Dublin!

OK, a friend just emailed me as her brother-in-law is going to Dublin and is looking for top tips. I asked what kind of weekend he was after (he is a bikram yoga teacher with an entrepreneurial bent), and was told up for anything. So, here we go - this is incredibly hard but these are the places I love (just a few of them1):

The Stag's Head: legendary pub just off Great George's St / Dame st that is where all the giants of Irish literature used to hang out. Mean place for a pint of Guinness.

Gruel: Self-styled New York diner on Dame Street, the chef used to be Billy Scurrie (who I secretly had a crush on!) who is a big name on the DUblin DJ scene. GREAT food featuring sandwiches like 'roast in a roll' amongst others. Good for breakfast, lunch and low key supper.

Mermaid Cafe: owned by the owners of Gruel, a really smart but contemporary restaurant beside Gruel with superb, modern food. Expensive, but good if you want a really special meal with great staff in a lovely atmosphere.

Chez Max: authentic french bistro beside Dublin Castle (Dame st) specialising in delicious french food, in a wonderful little room, with tables squished together and a classic bistro menu. I am sure Edith Piaf can be heard in the background....

Neary's: Pub, just off Grafton St, that is a favourite low-key haunt of the filim theatre tv folk who want a traditional pub. A great little spot.

Doheny and Nesbits: Near Ely place, a fab, traditional pub with a snug at the front and a mix of politicians and punters having after work drinks.

Le Gueleton: One of my favourite restaurants, on a link road between Drury st and Georges st. You can't book at this high-voltage french restaurant with a serious emphasis on good, authentic food. Takes food more seriously than Chez Max. If you can't get a table (very busy), grab a stool at the bar.

The Market Bar: Just opposite Le Gueleton there's an enormous bar in the old market, serving ok drinks and fine food in a big, gastro-pub-ish atmosphere.

Fallon and Byrne: Food hall on Wicklow St (or is it Wexford st?!?!), just off Grafton St that has all sorts of yummy food for sale. They also have a coffee counter with high tables and stools; you can get breakfast, lunch and supper here in a low key fashion, or something a bit smarter in the wine bar.

Ely: wine bar on Ely Place that serves really serious wine and delicious food from the owner's farm (Eric Robson). This is a really nice spot, if a bit dark as it is in the basement.

Temple Bar Food Market: Every Saturday there's a food market in Meeting House Square - it's great to pick up some picnic things for lunch, or for something to munch immediately - it's kind of tempting!

Irish Film Centre: No doubt, there are some good films to be seen here.

Calatrava Bridges: Dublin has TWO Calatrava bridges going over the Liffey. They are really spectacular.

The Winding Stair: Just over the ha'penny bridge from Temple Bar is The Winding Stair. Now, this used to be a book-shop (and I think they still have some books), but it also has a great restaurant that I keep reading about. I have not been, but it has become quite a name on the Dublin restaurant scene. From what I have read, it's great, unpretentious food in a cool atmosphere.

Italian Quarter: Again, just over the Liffey (the bridge opposite the Clarence - U2's hotel), there's a cool little quarter called the Italian Quarter - there are all sorts of Italian cafes and restaurants etc.

Out of Town:

For a nice walk with a great view, hop on the DART and head south for Dalkey, a lovely little village with a couple of art galleries, great health food shop, and arguably my favourite pub in Dublin, Finnegans. If Bono wasn't living in New York whilst his house is being renovated you might have seen him quietly having a pint here. It's nothing special, but that's its total charm. It is local, family-run and does a roaring trade. A great pub to watch the rugby in. Have a walk up the Vico Road, and you'll think you are in Italy on the Sorrento coast. There's a nudist swimming spot off the Vico, so if you're feeling brave, go for it!

Alternatively get off the DART in Glasthule, where James Joyce based his book Ulysses. The institution in Glasthule (there's not a lot to this little village type suburb), but check out the deli Cavistons (another Dublin landmark) and then head out towards the sea. Look right and you'll see a Martello Tower. This is where the famous swimming spot is - The Forty Foot. When I lived in Dublin (in Glasthule), I swam every day in the summer at the Forty Foot. Why don't you?